Seed Germinating/Starting
*After planting in trays, first place the trays in a warm spot (top of water heater, top of refrigerator). Most seeds do not have to have light in order to germinate, but need warmth. As soon as they break the soil surface, however, they will need light.
*If germination percentage is questionable, i.e., maybe the seed is a year or two old, roll seeds in a damp paper towel, place in something plastic (bag, envelope, plastic wrap), place in a warm place and check daily. When one sprouts, carefully transfer it to a cup, peat pellet, or cell pack.
*These days, most seed starting mixes are "soilless", meaning they could contain peat, perlite, sand or vermiculite but no actual soil, which can contain bacteria and diseases that tiny seedlings may not be able to fight off. In this section, though, if I refer to "soil", I really mean "soilless mix" - it's just easier!
I'm one of those people who calls it all "dirt" anyway!
Tsk...
Tsk...
*When you purchase seed starting mix, it is usually dry and it takes a while for it to soak up any water at first. If I'm in a hurry, I use warm water and a spray bottle to moisten the top of the mix and then set container in a pan of warm water so it will wick up into the soil. The easier way is to use a plastic bin with a lid, pour the mix in, then pour a cupful or so of very warm water on top of it (depending on the amount of soil). Put the lid on the bin, and by the next day the mix will be nicely moistened and you won't have to fight to get it to absorb water!
*When I'm starting seeds under lights, the LIGHT itself is at a premium! If I label the trays with plant tags, wooden popsicle sticks, etc., I feel that even THEY block a little of the light, so I recycle once again!
I cut strips out of the clear plastic packaging that a lot of items still come in, especially electronic and PC items - you know, the stuff that is so well sealed that you tear up your hands (or cut them, trying to open the damn thing with scissors or razor blades!). But, the plastic is thick and sturdy, and light goes thru it. I use either permanent marker or a labelmaker to mark them - I start so many different plants at times that I don't put the names on them - I just put numbers or letters and number the seeds on a separate list accordingly-
- I can then use the labels in ensuing seasons for other varieties. I cut tiny (about 1/4" by 2") ones for cell packs, or you can make them as large as you want. I use the larger ones to mark the seedlings after I put them in the ground. As you can see - some have been used for years and are yellowed, but are still very usable.
...Like this...
1) Castor Bean
2)Alyssum
.etc..............
- I can then use the labels in ensuing seasons for other varieties. I cut tiny (about 1/4" by 2") ones for cell packs, or you can make them as large as you want. I use the larger ones to mark the seedlings after I put them in the ground. As you can see - some have been used for years and are yellowed, but are still very usable.
*Another problem I always had was keeping plant labels from fading to nothing during our long harsh winters. I have tried wax pencils, paint pens, permanent markers, pencil (actually, regular lead pencil lasts the longest!), but by this time of year, this is what I end up with...
Actually, this is a GOOD one - I can still make out what it says!
BUT, the best thing I now do is also mark the BACK of the label - the sun, rain, and ice beat on the back a LOT less than the front, and it ends up much darker and more legible.
On some, I know what kind of plant it is without a label (this is a Heuchera, and I know them by sight). However, I currently have about 15 Heuchera cultivars, and if the color is similar to another, I won't have a clue as to which one it was!
Seed Saving & Swapping
*When collecting seed from seedheads on annuals/perennials, make sure the seed is dry and as mature as it's going to get. Depending on the plant, the seed can be left in the seedpod or broken/shaken loose.
*Seeds for tomatoes, cukes, things like that are a little more work to save - you can find more detailed instructions online than I can tell you. Just remember - if the tomato was grown from HYBRID seed, do not
save it expecting the same variety to come from it. Hybrid seed is the result of crossing two cultivars, so it would revert back to one of the parents. Oh, it would grow tomatoes, and they definitely wouldn't be
inedible, just not the same variety.
***Never forgot my next door neighbor at my old house - he was nice enough, he was just elderly and did things his own way, as most of us do after we become elderly! He would kill the weeds along our fence by pouring GASOLINE on them! OY....
One year, a volunteer tomato plant (one that came up by itself in the spring) was growing in his yard right next to my fence, and I watched the tomatoes grow all summer on that plant. One day, about mid August,
there were a good quantity of nicely sized, almost ripe tomatoes on the plant. Just then my neighbor came out, tore out the whole plant, tomatoes included, and threw it away!!! I was stunned. I said, "What are
you doing? They're almost ripe!" and he replied, "Oh, they came from a HI-bred tomato - they won't be any good." I tried to explain to him that they were still tomatoes and would taste fine, but he kept on, "Oh, no - they're bad - they were from a HI-bred!"
He also always said that tomatoes could not ever ripen before August, and thought I was joking when I showed him a ripe tomato in my garden one year on Memorial Day!***
I also get a lot of questions about how you should bring items to plant or seed swaps, so here is what I do, you may think of a better way- which is fine, but this may be useful to get started...
- Collect the seed (see above), make sure it's dry, separate batches of seeds or pods and put them in small envelopes or ziploc bags
- As to how many per envelope, it all depends on how many you have. If you have a few zillion tiny seeds, put a lot into however many you want to make (maybe a dozen?)
